A Green Treat of Verdicchio

It’s been a busy time in recent weeks. Still working from home, into Week 20 now, and it seems a long time ago that I was last in the office, back on March 16th. Since then, its been like living in a live action reworking of Groundhog Day. On the plus side, I’m loving the commute, which now takes 20 seconds, instead of 40 minutes. With the economy starting to return to existence, I won’t say normal yet, this has had be working long hours to get as much done to get things going as I can, in my own small way – Taking up a lot more time than the first month or so of our original Lockdown.

But I have been able to enjoy my wine collection, and this last weekend I opened up a bottle I have been eyeing up for a while, just waiting for the right moment, and right food to go with it. The wine in question being the 2017 Fattoria Coroncino Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Il Bacco from the Wine Club, and as the picture shows, with a picada of Italian meats (OK, there was some Spanish Serrano in there as well as Parma), and cheeses closer to home, with some decoration of tomatoes and cucumber, and a dash of pickle, the Verdicchio came out.

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The wine is from Marche in Ancona, and is a DOC wine. Under the DOC regulations, 85% of the wine must be Verdicchio, with allowable blending of Trebbiano and Malvasia to smooth out the final product. Unfortunately the web site of the producer is in Italian, and a little out of date, so I cannot be clear what, if any, addition was made in the 2017.

Nicely chilled, and subject to my 20/20 rule, the pour enlisted a yellow colour, with maybe a hint of green around the edges,,,,,,,, Now, my Italian isn’t proficient (OK, non-existant!), but I think that Verdicchio gets part of it name from Verde, which means Green, so maybe I was on the right track.

I was somewhat surprised by the strong nose, as my thoughts of this grape do not recall strong aromas, but there were clear floral, elderflower twitches on my nostrils. On the palate, the citrus fruit flavours came through, lemon, grapefruit, and quite strident acidity, puckering up the lips, but with the fruit balancing out, leaving a fresh, vibrant aftertaste. I had read somewhere in my studies that Almonds were a distinguishing feature of this grape, and maybe there was a hint of the nut left on the tongue, but I wouldn’t say I would have picked that out from the citrus flavours if I hadn’t remembered something from my old books.

Certainly an excellent wine, and yet another great example of the Wine Club Experience. In my constant quest to expand my knowledge, the delivery of the unknown from the Clubs helps to increase the range of flavours, and varietals to experience. Wines I may not find locally here in Ireland, or wines that even if they are on the shelves, I may not have reached for.

The wine went perfectly with the picada, and I would highly recommend picking this up again, if I could.

The Monthly Wine Club !

When I started out on the Learning Curve, to discover new wines from new regions, new varieties of grapes I had never experienced, I was in a slight dilemma. While I could look up grapes, regions, and wines, I would be tempted to stick to places I knew, grapes I was slightly familiar with. I needed a way to get out there and find new wines, within a reasonable budget, and without any preconceived ideas of what to buy.

Looking around, I discovered a Wine Club run by an online company here in Ireland, Wines Direct. They do have a physical presence out in Mullingar, and also an outlet in Arnotts, one of Dublin’s iconic department stores, but the Wine Club caught my eye, with their Explorers Club. It was exactly what I was looking for:

Are you getting bored of the same old wines? Join the Wine Explorers Club and get 6 exclusive wines delivered to your door every month. Just choose your level and whether you want a red, white or mixed case. Then we scour the globe to find new artisan wines for you to explore. Every month, 6 carefully curated bottles will appear; each with its own tasting notes, food pairings and information about the winemaker.

And so, some two years, and over 150 bottles of wine from all four corners of the planet, later, my latest arrivals were delivered yesterday. They have three levels of membership of the club, and I plumped for the top line, hoping that this would give me the chance to explore wines I would not have gone for on the shelf. In these two years, I have yet to be disappointed, aside from the fact maybe that I didn’t have a full case of some of the excellent wines I have received. Having said that, if required, you can always order more of any of the wines from the store, or online.

I thought it would be interesting to showcase this months delivery, to share what I have in store in the next while. This months selection arrived yesterday, and, as ever, the eclectic range of three whites, and three reds, was spread across different countries, with this month seeing three Italian, two French plus a trip down under to Australia. Each month sees different arrivals, never duplicated, a tour de force of the Wines of the World – A True Exploration.

(For more information, click on the highlighted areas).

Domaine de L’Hortus Grande Cuvee 2018 by Martin Orliac – Val de Monteferrand IGP

First up being a trip to the Languedoc, and Domaine de L’Hortus, and a blend of Chardonnay (40%), Sauvignon Gris (30%), Viognier (20%), and finally Petit Manseng (20%), with a mix between the barrel fermented Chardonnay and the steel used for the others. From the cool climate area of Pic Saint Loup, a Grand Vin in the making, and one for a special occasion I feel.

Cantina Marilana “Sketta” 2018 by Marilina and Federica Paterno – IGP Terre Siciliane

Next up, a trip to Sicily at the foot of Italy, and Cantina Marilana, for a wine made with very little intervention, concrete tanks for fermentation of the Grecanico grapes, extended maceration on the skins, and with six months in tank to fine naturally, before a further three months in the bottle before release, the sisters who run the family 60 hectare winery, in the southeast of Sicily, have come up with a winner here.

Coriole Redstone 2017 by Mark Lloyd – McLaren Vale

To the other side of the world next, and a trip to the McLaren Vale for a New World Shiraz, from the deep red soils of the region, and the Coriole Vineyards. Hence the name of the wine, with the grapes aged in old French oak for twelve months, and with some of the vines dating back to 1919, this results in a Shiraz, or Syrah as the grape is known in Europe, richly coloured, and packed full of flavours. As in most of the Clubs vineyards, organic practices are carried out, showcasing the wines.

Chateau Fongaban 2015 by Pierre Taix – Puisseguin-St Emilion AOC

Back to Europe and Chateau Fongaban, with a trip to the cradle of wine in France, Bordeaux for this Merlot domninated/Cabernet Franc blend from the St Emilion Satellite appellation of Puisseguin, a name with a Celtic connection, with Puy being the Celtic word for The Hill of the Powerful Wine (see, you learn something new everyday!). Aged in old oak, I expect to find powerful aromas of dark cherry and spice when I open this, although I think I will put this one away for a few years.

Stefano Accordini Classico 2018 by Stefano himself – Valpolicella Classico DOC

The last two bottles see us back in Italy, with first a trip to the north east, on the hillside close to the River Adige and Lake Garda to Stefano Accodini. As is always the case with the Club, a family business, produces this blend of Italian grapes, Corvina (65%), Rondinella (30%) and Molinara (5%), a luscious red full of Morella cherries and red berries. Hand harvested, with a week on the skins, before four months resting in tanks before bottling and release. One to drink young.

Castellari Bergaglio 2018 by Marco Bergaglio – Gavi DOCG

Last, but by no means least, and to the north west, between Piemonte and Liguria, the Gavi DOCG area, and the Cortese grape produced by Castellari Bergaglio. Another white that benefits from the careful hand of the winemaker, keeping the juice on the lees after a soft press, with fermentation taking up to 20 days, before a short maturation in bottle, and again a wine to be drunk young, although with the body here, it will keep for a few years, and retain its honeyed flavours of melon and figs without losing quality.

So, there we have it, a tour of my Explorers case this month. Over the two years, the Club has taken me on a journey of discovery, form Argentina and Chile in South America, via Australia and New Zealand, to the traditional European Classics of Spain, Italy and France, with trips to Germany, Austria, Portugal and Greece along the way. Traditional grapes we all know and love, to new varieties I have trouble pronouncing, especially the beautiful indigenous grapes of Greece, such as Xinomavro and Thrapsathiri (yeh, go on, you try!). I look forward to continuing the journey.

NB. I would stress that this is purely my thoughts on the Wine Club I joined, I have not been paid to promote the Club, or any of the wines described.